A Surfer Creed

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Adapted from The Tao Te Ching, chapter 10, by Lao Tzu, translated by Feng Jia-fu and Jane English: Carrying board and soul and embracing the wave, Can you avoid separation? Surfing fully and becoming supple, Can you be like a newborn babe? Washing and cleansing the primal vision, Can you be without agendas? Loving all […]

Luau

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Keith was getting antsy. It’s November, and we should be going south. But we have time for a luau and to surf the Lower Trestles.Z and Tulsi are surfing with Eugene Douglass and Slate. It’s a gnarly demonstration by Eugene Douglass, who sees the board fly over himself, a complete wipe-out. Slate balances his great […]